Kanna Helped Me
- Brian
- Deshi
Post
Thanks Chris! Kanna help you, perhaps? And smile and wave are truly awesome.
I haven't tuned the sole yet, even still pulling some good shavings and leaving a nice finish, can't wait to see what can be done with a tuned sole but I plan to let it hang out for a time.
The blade was pretty easy, had to tap out one corner, the chipper was a pita requiring some serious work.
Got a nice quick way to make shims from copper pipe:
Kanna Helped Me
Thanks Chris! Kanna help you, perhaps? And smile and wave are truly awesome.
I haven't tuned the sole yet, even still pulling some good shavings and leaving a nice finish, can't wait to see what can be done with a tuned sole but I plan to let it hang out for a time.
The blade was pretty easy, had to tap out one corner, the chipper was a pita requiring some serious work.
Got a nice quick way to make shims from copper pipe:
- djwong
- Deshi
- Location: Cupertino, CA
- Chris Pyle
- Deshi
- Location: St. Louis, MO
Post
Re: Kanna Helped Me
Nice anvil!! Did you deck that anvil yourself? I seem to recall someone having an anvil surface machined on here.
Clean shaving to boot.
Clean shaving to boot.
- Chris Hall
- Site Admin
- Contact:
- Location: Greenfield, Massachusetts
- durbien
- Sweeper of Floors, Maker of Tea
- Location: Southern CA
Post
Re: Kanna Helped Me
I'm always amazed at how spotless your shop is (compared to mine, anyway). And carpeted, to boot.
- Brian
- Deshi
Post
Re: Kanna Helped Me
Thanks Gents!
Chris, I really appreciate the nudge in this direction.
Chris P, indeed that was me. I'm working on putting together something for the hardy hole that will better suit ura-dashi. The side of my anvil is rounded over, so I flopped a piece of heavy leather over the edge and used that, it was successful but I think a large rounded surface will do better. This was perfect for adjusting twist and putting a belly in the chipper.
Chris, I really appreciate the nudge in this direction.
Chris P, indeed that was me. I'm working on putting together something for the hardy hole that will better suit ura-dashi. The side of my anvil is rounded over, so I flopped a piece of heavy leather over the edge and used that, it was successful but I think a large rounded surface will do better. This was perfect for adjusting twist and putting a belly in the chipper.
- Brian
- Deshi
Post
Re: Kanna Helped Me
Tuning up the sole. I can get some seriously thin shavings from softwood, like....ridiculously thin. Walnut planes nicely, but rock maple is hell. If the blade is super sharp I get nice shavings, but soon as it looses even a hint of sharpness I get a choppy cut.
Is this my technique failing me, or is the 37 degree bed just not great for wood this hard?
I planed some doug fir from the HD (real garbage) and I can practically see my face in it at certain angles.
Is this my technique failing me, or is the 37 degree bed just not great for wood this hard?
I planed some doug fir from the HD (real garbage) and I can practically see my face in it at certain angles.
- Chris Hall
- Site Admin
- Contact:
- Location: Greenfield, Massachusetts
Post
A 37˚ bedded plane, which would have something like a 25˚ bevel, will excel at softer woods but won't be the best choice for really hard material. A very thin bevel edge like that can be deflected down by the material in the cut and bounce back up out of the cut, giving you that chattering, uneven cutting.
A standard bevel plane at 38.66˚ would be marginally better - you'd get e few more passes out of it. Suggest something in the 45~50˚ zone likely to be more ideal. Also, for harder woods, it can be helpful to size down to a 60~65mm plane. Reduces the pulling effort slightly.
Re: Kanna Helped Me
Assuming the blade is well seated, I would lean towards the above contention.Is this my technique failing me, or is the 37 degree bed just not great for wood this hard?
A 37˚ bedded plane, which would have something like a 25˚ bevel, will excel at softer woods but won't be the best choice for really hard material. A very thin bevel edge like that can be deflected down by the material in the cut and bounce back up out of the cut, giving you that chattering, uneven cutting.
A standard bevel plane at 38.66˚ would be marginally better - you'd get e few more passes out of it. Suggest something in the 45~50˚ zone likely to be more ideal. Also, for harder woods, it can be helpful to size down to a 60~65mm plane. Reduces the pulling effort slightly.
- Brian
- Deshi
Post
Re: Kanna Helped Me
Thanks Chris, I'm likely mistaken and this is actually 38.66 degrees, but all the same it seems I'll likely have to get a few of these and setup for different woods.
45 is likely right one for most of what I plane since all of my other planes are 45 degrees and I can cut all of the woods that I normally plane without issue.
45 is likely right one for most of what I plane since all of my other planes are 45 degrees and I can cut all of the woods that I normally plane without issue.
- Chris Hall
- Site Admin
- Contact:
- Location: Greenfield, Massachusetts
Post
Re: Kanna Helped Me
A standard 8-bu plane is 38.6598...˚
You might want to check your bevel angle as well. Sometimes planes come with the angle slightly acutely ground. If you aim for 12˚ on the underside of the bevel for clearance/spring back, then the bevel would be ideally around 26.66˚.
Perhaps you need a little curly VG bubinga in your life for added entertainment? Or, even better, lignum vitae, which I've found will still exhibit a slight amount of tear out with a 60˚ bedded plane
You might want to check your bevel angle as well. Sometimes planes come with the angle slightly acutely ground. If you aim for 12˚ on the underside of the bevel for clearance/spring back, then the bevel would be ideally around 26.66˚.
Perhaps you need a little curly VG bubinga in your life for added entertainment? Or, even better, lignum vitae, which I've found will still exhibit a slight amount of tear out with a 60˚ bedded plane
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