Quiet Dust collectors?

If it has an electrical cord it is covered here.
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Brian
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Tue Dec 27, 2016 11:57 am

V-3000 shipping my way on 1/6~ Looking forward to it as I am avoiding any really large resawing until that collector arrives. I did some resawing on AYC and covered myself and most of the garage in dust while my Festool vac cleared a small bit of dust, lol.
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Chris Hall
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Tue Dec 27, 2016 12:41 pm

Bandsaws, i find, are not the best for dust collection even when they have ports on them. My Hitachi CB75F has a dust port, which I'm hooked up to, but at least half the dust falls out the bottom. Thinking of adding a collection point there. My CB100FA also has imperfect collection. Seems like two ports are needed on many bandsaws.
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Brian
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Tue Dec 27, 2016 1:31 pm

I can certainly see how they're terrible for dust collection. To close up the area under the table and before the bottom guide, they have a sort of sheetmetal cover, can't imagine that helps to create a vacuum.

They did, however, create an area where a wooden block can be inserted to help reduce the amount of dust that falls into the bottom of the saw. I'll have to report back as to how well that actually works.

Two ports is a good idea. I'm sure it is inconvenient to build, but I would think that immediately under the table would be the best spot for the first port, not 6-10" lower like they provide. Right at the bottom of the wheel would be nice as well.
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Tue Dec 27, 2016 1:36 pm

It's a tough call, though, taking the hole saw to perfectly intact sheet metal...
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Brian
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Tue Dec 27, 2016 2:30 pm

I feel the same way, my bandsaw is still held on a pedestal, so I won't be able to. Give it a few years and I'll probably feel differently.
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Tue Dec 27, 2016 6:57 pm

On a pedestal? Literally or figuratively (or both)?
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Brian
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Wed Dec 28, 2016 8:38 am

Figuratively :) On a separate note Do you use a saw horse as an outfeed table?
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Chris Hall
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Wed Dec 28, 2016 10:48 am

I don't, because my bandsaw tables are much higher than my sawhorses. Both small and large bandsaws have extension bars and outfeed roller supports, which does help.

You will probably find an online support group for your bandsaw worship.
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Brian
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Wed Dec 28, 2016 2:41 pm

Haha, it will work to offset this online enablers group ;)

Right, right. I've forgotten the basics since its been so long. I will buy a roller outfeed, that will be handy and I can hang it on the wall when not in use.

Now, with bandsaw and DC done/near completion, I've set my sights on a jointer. It will be some months before I can buy one, so I'm doing my research.

WRT cutterheads, I've really wanted to buy one with a helical head (inserts) they all seem to have a name for these but basically all the same thing with minor differences between manufacturers. Do you also feel that these cutter heads are worthwhile? I've had it in my mind that if I'm going to get something big enough for a majority of face jointing then I should get something with a cutter head that minimizes tearout.
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Re: Quiet Dust collectors?

Wed Dec 28, 2016 7:45 pm

I'm not really sold on helical heads personally, though I do have a Byrd head for my shaper and it works fine. I have some reservations about them.

The argument that a nick in a knife can be resolved simply by rotating a knife to a fresh edge, does not work so well in practice, I think. All the knives are wearing equally, and so rotating one or two knives to a new cutting edge means those edges will project below the rest and leave tracks in the wood. Also, when it comes time to rotate or change out a significant number of knives, it is quite time consuming and if you are not scrupulous about keeping the knife seats clean then you can end out with some knives out of line. Finally, since helical heads keep knives continuously in contact with the wood, the motor amperage draw - and your electrical bill - will be higher. A minor issue to be sure.

I prefer Tersa heads myself, though I have found the only knives worth keeping in them are carbide, which are expensive but go forever. Dealing with a nick in the knife is easy, simply by sliding a knife laterally 1mm the problem is solved. The knife projection is so slight that tear out is not a common problem. Knife changes take seconds, so shop time can be focussed on the woodworking.

I wonder too Brian - all I've seen you work so far have been woods which are 'cooperative', like cherry and walnut, etc., so if those are the woods you plan to work most of the time, concern about tear out seems like it should be a little further down the priority list, no? I guess if you were to work tear-out prone woods a lot of the time, then a look at helical cutters might make sense for the slight advantage they appear to provide in that regard. and, it seems to me that if you go helical, then you would be best to do so on the planer first, then the jointer. The planer is the tool taking the material to dimension after all. If the jointer is wide wnough, a skewed cutting path can be employed with standard knives to reduce tear out to an extent.

If you have a wood which is especially prone to tear out, the safest course of action for removing large amounts of material is planing to within about 1/8" of final thickness and then going the rest of the way with a wide belt. I took a bunch of curly bubinga panels down to a local shop and had them done with their computerized Butfering, with excellent results, and much relief.

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