Cabinet Build (WIP)

[Brian]

Thank you!

Terry's planes are very nice, I have a side rabbet/dovetail plane and also the rabbet plane and both are very well worked out. He has a very good design on the nicker, which is easily adjustable. It scores ahead of the skewed blade and the result is a clean cut in pretty much everything I've tried it in. The woods here are red oak, sapele and african mahogany, red oak and african mahogany are easy, but sapele is not...and yet it remains easy to cut and grooves nicely.

[djwong]

Brian,

Your saw cuts are amazingly clean and track right on the line. On the HNT Gordon planes, do you think the dado and side rabbet will be comfortable to use in a pulling motion? My plane stops are all setup for japanese planes.

Thanks,
David

[Brian]

Thanks David!

I believe so, I did half of the dado's inside the assembled case and in that scenario it was much easier to pull the plane than to push it. I did so by making a type of spacer out of cedar and using that as a guide block.

[Chris Hall]

Nice work!

[Brian]

Thanks Chris!

[Brian]

Framing out the back panel now.

[Brian]

And back to prepping stock;

Ran out of 4/4 and so I ripped one off an 8/4 board.




and all dim'd and fancy


Grooving



No Plough....no problem


This plane has a nicker on it and makes a good groove even through ugly sections of wood


Mocked up the sides and ready to mark out M&T's.


I'll likely do through wedged tenons since they can be hidden in the groove. Probably on the side of unnecessary, but I prefer wedged tenons to plain tenons....minimal reliance upon glue. I used to really glue the hell out of wedged tenons, but now I generally just glue the wedges.

[Brian]

Making some good progress again on the cabinet now that the bed is out of the way and the table awaits client feedback;



Back Panel now complete less a method of pinning




Now moving onto the doors to give myself some viewing satisfaction after a very long build. The door parts have been waiting a long time for me to return to them, so I touched them up to get them back to flat (some has minor wind) and squared their edges in preparing for use;

I also cut the veneers and pressed them to the plywood panels.



Grooving the door parts


Door panels


Next steps are the door joinery. I plan to do wedged through tenons top and bottom. I will likely use angled haunches to seat everything. The door panels will be integral since the rails are so long and thin and I will likely build a support system for behind the door to further ensure they remain square for their lifetime. This system will double as a necklace holder (possibly) and allow me to make a nice cover for the inside of the door which I will upholster in leather.

[Chris Pyle]

Wow, fantastic work. That curly walnut looks nice, how thick is it? Will it hold up under a round of planing?

I'd really like to see your process for adding leather. Thanks for keeping this updated, your builds have been enjoyable to watch.

Did Chris remove the ban on the word 'schmeer'? edit: nope, looks like you can get by the filter with pluralization.

[Brian]

Thanks Chris! Glad you are enjoying!

This has been a really enjoyable build so far for me as well, this is for my mom and she would like to have it by Christmas, so I've really been able to take my time and work through issues while I work on other builds.

I have basically 3 months and change to finish this up, sounds like a lot but I'm sure it will fly by. Once the doors are together and installed I will have some confidence that this can actually be completed by then.

The back panel schmeer is .020" and it's over baltic birch ply. I sanded it, I might be able to plane it but even a small tear-out would be condemning. Same thing on the burled door panels, I'll sand them as well. The door panels will actually be glued solid where the back panel floats inside of it's frame. No real reason for the back panel to float other than ease of assembly. The doors are easier to manage so they will be made solid.