I figure this project would be a good starting point and give me a useful shop tool. I'm mostly using Toshio Odate's plans, I made mine a touch longer. I have all the layout done, I'll hopefully start cutting soon.
I do have a question about layouts. In the Japanese method, typically, when are knifed lines used?
Low Horses
- Chris Hall
- Site Admin
- Contact:
- Location: Greenfield, Massachusetts
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Re: Low Horses
Some carpenters knife some of, or most of, their lines, some do not use a marking knife at all. There are different schools of thought on the matter.
- Ken
- Raw Log Import
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Re: Low Horses
Thank you, I figured it might be like that I think I'll try it with out and see how I get along.Chris Hall wrote:Some carpenters knife some of, or most of, their lines, some do not use a marking knife at all. There are different schools of thought on the matter.
- Chris Hall
- Site Admin
- Contact:
- Location: Greenfield, Massachusetts
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Re: Low Horses
Part of the decision to knife or not depends upon what sort of tooling you tackle the cut out with, and the propensity of that tool to tear out the surface or not. The knifed line can be the defining opening for other hand tools to gage off of when cleaning the cut out to the line, but one can also choose to gauge the cut (dimension and position) by an offset, a fence setting, a gage block, etc..
Also, whether the joint interfaces are visible or not, and whether the wood you are working is more prone to tear out than other woods if going to affect the decision. A though mortise might be knifed on the exit face but not on the entry face, for example.
Also, whether the joint interfaces are visible or not, and whether the wood you are working is more prone to tear out than other woods if going to affect the decision. A though mortise might be knifed on the exit face but not on the entry face, for example.
- Ken
- Raw Log Import
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Re: Low Horses
Thank you, that makes a lot of sense.Chris Hall wrote:Part of the decision to knife or not depends upon what sort of tooling you tackle the cut out with, and the propensity of that tool to tear out the surface or not. The knifed line can be the defining opening for other hand tools to gage off of when cleaning the cut out to the line, but one can also choose to gauge the cut (dimension and position) by an offset, a fence setting, a gage block, etc..
Also, whether the joint interfaces are visible or not, and whether the wood you are working is more prone to tear out than other woods if going to affect the decision. A though mortise might be knifed on the exit face but not on the entry face, for example.
- Chris Hall
- Site Admin
- Contact:
- Location: Greenfield, Massachusetts
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Re: Low Horses
Even a broken clock is right twice a day.Ken wrote:Thank you, that makes a lot of sense.
- djwong
- Deshi
- Location: Cupertino, CA
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Re: Low Horses
Hi Ken,
Instead of Odate's low horse, I built one outlined in a short paper by Mark Grable. The paper may be found here. I preferred it to Odate's because it did not require pegging the beam to the feet. The feet are instead held by a compression fit. The overall dimensions are similar to Odate's example.
Here are a couple of photos...
Instead of Odate's low horse, I built one outlined in a short paper by Mark Grable. The paper may be found here. I preferred it to Odate's because it did not require pegging the beam to the feet. The feet are instead held by a compression fit. The overall dimensions are similar to Odate's example.
Here are a couple of photos...
- Ken
- Raw Log Import
- SteveM
- Raw Log Import
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Re: Low Horses
Good job . They wouldn't stay pretty for long once they've been used anyway. I made mine pretty much the same - using Odate's design. The joints loosen (at least mine did) after some time, but its not really a problem.
Do any of work "on the floor"?
Do any of work "on the floor"?
- Ken
- Raw Log Import
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These I built on the bench, now that I have these I want to build a planing bench like Odate's and try working on the floor.
Re: Low Horses
Thank you!SteveM wrote:Good job . They wouldn't stay pretty for long once they've been used anyway. I made mine pretty much the same - using Odate's design. The joints loosen (at least mine did) after some time, but its not really a problem.
Do any of work "on the floor"?
These I built on the bench, now that I have these I want to build a planing bench like Odate's and try working on the floor.
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