Craftsmanship in Wood

...For real this time, this one is actually going onto a wall

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/201 ... %EF%BB%BF/

Enjoy, I look forward to your comments.

Good morning, I've completed the sliding doors on the wall-mounted media console and have detailed parts of the process previously covered in brief. I hope that you enjoy reading the article and I look forward to your comments.

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/201 ... le-hikido/

Beautiful work as usual.
Just because you don't get a lot of feedback on these posts, please don't think they are not appreciated.

Gadge

Gadge wrote:Beautiful work as usual.
Just because you don't get a lot of feedback on these posts, please don't think they are not appreciated.

I agree with both points.
I particularly appreciate the detail that you (and Chris) put into your blog posts on the methods and techniques used.

Iain

I second that.
The work shown here is exemplary and inspiring.

Thanks gents! Much appreciated! I know many wait to the last in the series to comment, and that is fine with me, I'm glad people are following along and find inspiration in my work.

Hi Brian, your hand-crafting is amazing and thanks for sharing. Any issues planing the walnut? Just curious, as I found it difficult using my smoothing kanna while having a go at some walnut also.

Hi John, thank you!

The trick I've found with walnut is to read grain direction by way of looking at the direction of the pores, rather than only the direction of the grain. The pores should be rising in the direction of plane travel.

Radial grain can be difficult at times, and so can grain reversals and areas where there are small knots.

Walnut varies greatly, some of it you can do no wrong, others you have to throw everything you have at it, such as tightening the chip breaker until the shavings go up and over the plane, along with retaining a very keen level of sharpness.

I also tend to prefer air dried walnut if I can source it, it can produce a much nicer shaving than kiln dried.

Air dried material is superior, it just seems to retain it's pliability, more springy/alive. How do you tighten up your chip breaker? Any little tricks you may want to share?

The color contrast is incrddible, on this cabinet the doors are air dried and the case kiln dried, the doors are alive the case I've had to use walnut oil to restore the character that should be visible.

I look down into in the plane and tap to tighten the breaker until the visible edge disappears, at that point I am very close and can adjust to the shaving from there. When they go up and over the iron the breaker is right.