Craftsmanship in Wood

Hi John,

Regarding tightening up the chip breaker. 20 minutes in on this video Mr Watanabe shows how it's done. If you haven't seen this video before you may want to scroll back to see all the preparation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bT5qLzbidRs&t=561s

I find the primary bevel on my chip breaker needs to be around 1 mm high (and about 70 degrees) to get the right effect. Others seem to achieve it with a smaller primary bevel height.

Gadge

Appreciate the tip guys, many thanks.

john verge wrote:How do you tighten up your chip breaker? Any little tricks you may want to share?

It appears from that comment that you have not read the Kanna Tuning Manual you bought from me several weeks back(?). That topic is covered fairly well there, pages 65~71 if I might be more specific.

Actually I haven't but will flag that foot note which you gave me here, thanks.

Gadge wrote:I find the primary bevel on my chip breaker needs to be around 1 mm high (and about 70 degrees) to get the right effect. Others seem to achieve it with a smaller primary bevel height.

Gadge

I think you mean 'secondary bevel' there, though I gather in the sense of 'the bevel which does the main bit of work' your reference.

A 1mm secondary bevel is fine, however there is a slight penalty in that the mouth cannot be as tight, else the shaving will tend to jam. That said, mouth tightness is not nearly as critical to avoiding tear out as is sub blade set up and adjustment.

The standard size of secondary bevel is around 0.5mm.

Chris, I've had success in keeping the mouth tight by reducing the wear angle to get both a tight mouth and steep bevel. I've never measured the bevel but it's likely 70-80 degrees.

In today's post I detail the process of building a pass-through to accommodate wires for the electronics which will be placed in this cabinet.

Please check out my post, and I look forward to your comments.

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/201 ... ssthrough/

The mouth can be kept tight when the secondary bevel is on the smaller 0.3~0.5mm size, but with a large (i.e., 1mm wide) secondary bevel, there is no way to have a tight mouth and set the sub blade to the correct depth without incurring chip jams.

Ahh, I see what you mean now, thanks for clarifying.

Good morning! The wall mounted media console is now completed after the final stage, building a set of shelves held in place by moveable shelf pins. I hope that you will check out the post, and I look forward to your comments.

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/201 ... ole-final/