Preliminaries - Milling

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Chris Hall
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Re: Preliminaries - Milling

Wed Jul 09, 2014 8:44 pm

Red oak has pores which will wick moisture right through, from one end to another. It has a loud grain pattern typically, especially once finished, and finishing requires that the pores be filled. It's a fast growing tree and typically sawn flatsawn, which is my least favorite grain orientation. Much prefer white oak.
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Chris Pyle
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Re: Preliminaries - Milling

Sun Aug 10, 2014 4:53 pm

Chris,

What type of wood glue do you use for your panels? Would you rather we create our own build threads as we work on projects or just post to the individual threads you've created? I don't want to clutter or cause confusion with any sizes of material/sketch-up images, etc.

Here are the long boards (with an extra) and the lid and bottom boards.

Group shot:
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Lid boards before final planing and glue-up (assuming they stop cupping).
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another shot of the lid boards
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Long boards
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So, the top is a curly maple and the bottom is regular maple and I see why you suggested the growth rings that run parallel/ 45 degrees to the boards length. These started out around 13/16 and I planed them down to .52ish and they have already cupped. Very disappointing but I should've followed directions. I'll take an additional 1/16-1/32 every other day until I see some stability or they may have to just sit this one out.

Any one have a guess on the long boards? I purchased these boards nearly 3-4 years ago when I originally thought I'd get into woodworking then I let them sit in a barn. They are remarkably stable and beautiful figure despite having what looks like some sapwood on a 1/3-1/4. At first I thought it was QS sycamore but it has a bit of a red tint to it. I don't recall what it is but it's been stable after cutting to size, although still a bit fat at this point ( ~ .600)
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Chris Hall
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Re: Preliminaries - Milling

Mon Aug 11, 2014 8:25 am

Chris,

looking good. I'm probably not what you might call an expert on glue, however I tend to use Titebond II or III for species that can be glued satisfactorily with that type of glue. For oily woods like Teak or rosewood, the only glue to use is Oak and Teak Epoxy:

http://www.smithandcompany.org/OT/UsingOT.html

If I think future dis-assembly might be required on a glued part, then I use Hide Glue. Increasingly, over the years, I have tended towards using less and less glue and relying more and more upon joinery without glue.
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Chris Pyle
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Re: Preliminaries - Milling

Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:57 pm

Gluing up the top panel and bottom panels tomorrow.

I think I found out what the long boards are: QS sycamore.

http://www.woodworkerssource.com/quarte ... amore.html

Very similar "grain pattern" so I finally know what it is and I really want to buy some more. It's a very nice looking wood, although I don't know how well it will machine/cut. The jointing and planing hasn't been too bad.
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Chris Hall
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Re: Preliminaries - Milling

Fri Aug 15, 2014 6:49 pm

I find sycamore a difficult wood to plane cleanly. Sort of wooly grained...
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IvanS
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Re: Preliminaries - Milling

Sun Dec 13, 2015 9:54 pm

Here is my second post on the box project. I managed to mill most of my lumber to the dimensions I made on google sketch up, accept the height of the side boards will be 6 1/4" tall. Here is a shot of the plan I came up with.
rsz_tool_box.jpg
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The top and bottom boards were a little over 3/8" thick but had to be glued together. I hope this will be strong enough to carry my tools.
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The last picture is the assortment of lumber ready to get the mortise and tenons laid out. More pics to come soon.
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