I'm surprised that no one answered your question Jamie. I had not noticed it until today
For most purposes, a standard bedded 38.5˚ plane with properly set up and set sub blade will take care of the situation. You'll know you have the plane set up correctly when you can plane an easily worked wood against the run of the grain without tear out. The sub blade prep and set up is critical to success in this regard.
Some woods are more cantankerous however, whether they have rowed, interlocked or curly grain, or are just plain old hard as rock. In some cases the regular plane can take a shaving without tear out, however you might only be reliably getting one or two passes before problems develop, and resharpening after ever pass or two can get old quickly. In other cases the type of wood will simply not cooperate and tend to tear even with a perfectly set up standard plane.
The way forward is go to a more steeply bedded plane, say with a 45˚to60˚ bedded angle for the blade. The 45˚ plane can still use a chip breaker. With the steeper bedding angle comes a more obtuse blade bevel angle, and this will stand up better against hard woods as well, in terms of keeping a sharp edge.
If a 60˚ bedded plane does not do the trick, then you will have to look at scraping planes, in which the blade is near vertical, or even forward of vertical. The surface you obtain from such a plane will not be quite as glassy as what can be obtained with a lower bedded angle plane, but it will be satisfactory, I have found, and it will be free of tear out.